May!

I can't remember if I posted yet in May. May went by so fast here. It is unbelievable. We are officially on the countdown to summer. We have 5 weeks left of our first year. It is amazing. I am ready to get started since we have such an perfect summer planned and next year our trips are going to be better than ever!

First, I have one more thing to add to my missing list. THE LIBRARY! I know it is nerdy and surprising because it sure surprised me, but I miss free books. I miss a place to go and browse the shelves for free! I have only been able to buy books since we have been here and I don't wanna do it anymore! I know there are libraries on campus but I want a big free library with adult, non-educational fiction! I want to read some crappy Chick-Lit for free, not for the 2.99 single kindle price. Crappy chick-lit for free is justifiable but crappy Chick-Lit for 2.99 or more is unacceptable!! I get my t.v. and movies for free, now I want my books! Due to my extensive library fines in both Portland and Virignia, I probably am not even allowed to check out books but I am sure gonna try!

On to the important stuff. It was Michael's birthday weekend and although we did not do anything wild and crazy, afterall he was only turning 29, =), we had a nice time!
It started on Thursday night out in the more hipster part of town Gemmayze.  We really like it there and it is about a 10 minute, with no traffic, cab ride from where we live!  So, we went there for happy hour and got introduced to a bar that has several varities of Arak from different parts of Lebanon. Arak is a liquor and when mixed with water, it turns white. It tastes like black licorce and I do NOT like it. The bartender even mixed it with blackberries for me but it still tastes like medicine. So, I had a fresh watermelon martini and it was amazing!  Michael and Tyson, however, sampled a few Araks and loved it!  Pictures are below



Then on Friday night we had a Foreign Hire BBQ at the President of our schools house. It was started out as a lovely evening with drinks and good conversations, however it ended not so well for me! I met up with my old enemy beef! Let me give you a little background. Sometimes, when I eat beef too quickly or in too big of bites, it gets caught in my throat and I can't shallow. Super weird, I know! Usaully, it passes with a small sip or two of water and maybe worse case the hiccups! But, occassionally there is a night where it does not pass so easily, it has only happened to me 3 times in my life. All, of course, in public places. Once, on a date in college, once at a bar in Portland and all through the neighborhood, and now at a Foreign Hire BBQ in Lebanon.  Awesome!!!  We had just sat down to dinner at a table of 6 and the beef struck!  Thankfully, the table had just been complaining about how dark it was and hard to see their food, but I still proceeded to throw/spit up at the table, not once, twice, but three times before I got away.  It was humiliating. I excused myself to the bathroom, started to cry and was too embarassed to return to the table. HAPPY BIRTHDAY  MICHAEL. Thankfully, he took me home, then went back to the party said my apologies and got to play soccer after dinner. All ends well. And I was completely fine an hour later! I also proceeded at 30 years old to call my Mom and cry to her about it!

Michael's second birthday dinner!

Another Beach Club

Arak!

My Watermelon Martini!

On Saturday, we went to Michael's first Beirut beach club. This is quite an experience and the thing to do in the summer months.  Almost every Friday or Monday, I get asked if I am going to the beach or if I went. If the answer is no, a very quizzical look and a lot of sympathy follows, because it is immediately assumed that if you weren't at the beach or were either sick or incapacitated in some horrible way. However, the truth is the beach clubs are an expensive adventure. They range in price and quality. There are 5 that we can walk to that range in price from $20 to $35 to get in and then there are the drinks,  you can't not have a drink, and then food.  It becomes a pricey day. However, the people watching is well worth the price of admission. The best made of up of Beirut show up. There was a lot of work spent on getting ready to go the beach clubs, and people stay all day. They supposedly at night become quite a crazy party. But, it is incredibly relaxing and fun.  The beach club hires a dj for the day and there are constant waiters at your beckon call.  I think Michael and I were the only people there using sunscreen and not baby oil.  I really, really enjoy the days we get to go but it is definitely costly. However, it costs less than the 10 boob jobs, 20 nose jobs, and 100 gym memberships or steroid injections that everyone else spent to go.
We then went out to dinner again in Gemmayze to an Argentinain restaurant and had a rooftop meal and then back to the Arak place. It was excellent.

The Saturday beach club! The sea is just beyond that bar. You had to make reservations to sit by the sea. Who knew!

This is a random picture but these are the smallest necatrines ever..Lebanon doesn't believe in adult sized fruit!

Do we like more world-traveled and a year older? BECAUSE WE ARE!

I still can't believe in less than 30 days, I will be able to say that I lived a year in the Middle East! Who does that!?!  I am not sure how I will feel about returning next year and doing it all again, but I am optimistic, especially with a bunch of cool trips on the horizon. I know I will never ever regret this decision. Although it has slightly delayed by baby plans..=) Michael and I are a stronger and better couple now and I just feel more aware. I came to this country assuming to find a sandy, conservative, slightly hostile, environment and have found some of that not to be true. Yes, this place has a huge list of deficits, but it also is so full of life and charm. We sat a beach club yesterday, where we had a swim up bar and the ocean in front of us, and war torn, broken down buildings behind us. It is hard to describe. I know I don't want to spend my life here or even more than 2 years, but these 2 years will always be a positive and important part of who I am!

Things that I miss...

The countdown to the end of our year has begun. It is a little early still but within the last few weeks things that I miss from home are flooding to me.  The "seriously, I live in Beirut" moments are fading, still attainable but fading. They are slowly being replaced with the "oh my gosh, I can't wait to have..."  I am pretty much only talking about food and drink here which does not sound nice to my friends and family but please know that you all are the obvious bonuses of coming home! I am talking more about the taken for granted bonuses at home!

So here is what I have so far...

1.  Not mixing my poop toilet paper with Michael's poop toilet paper. It just doesn't seem like the thing a married couple should do especially one where the husband still believes his wife doesn't go number 2 and he won't pee in the shower.  Both of those are things about Michael encase you didn't get it.

2. Por que no. This is so obvious I shouldn't even mention it. I just want good Mexican and a margarita. Since, I don't drink as much here as I did in Portland, I am pretty sure one margarita there is going to be my undoing, but I am willing to risk it. Michael used to say I was a fun drunk from those margaritas, I think this time around might change his tune..hahaha

3. Slurpees. Truthfully, I have not thought of a slurpee in months! Since, there are no 7-11 reminders but the other day on my walk home from school their memory came flooding back to me. They used to be my go to for all occasions, driving home from college, the weekend, Monday. It didn't matter. So, I am surprised this void did not hit me earlier but it is definitely hit me like a ton of bricks!
 I wonder if I could make a replica in the blender. I will look into it!

4. I do not miss driving a car becasue I have never really liked it and it instantly makes me tired, not to mention I am bad at it. This is a fact many of you can attest to. But, I feel like I am 15 again waiting for the moment I turn 16 and get complete freedom. Of course, that is not exactly how it worked then and it won't be this time either, since we are only borrowing cars, but the freedom of just going is a really exciting idea. I don't have to talk in Arabic to anyone and settle a rate before I get in the car. I don't have to then argue that rate when I get out of the car. It is a luxury I completely took for granted when I was Mrs. Fancy with a car.

5. I miss understanding everything that is said in a group setting! I am not sure how my ears will adjust to being able to understand everything said everywhere I go. No hand signals and one word sentences. I might go into sensory overload and block out everything!

6. I miss quiet street sounds. I know everywhere has street noise but the noises I hear here are not the usual sounds. I have grown a slight hatred towards cats because here they seem to be in prepetual mating season, which means screams louder and more awful than any person should bare. I will not miss them this summer! Sorry Ryan and Stephanie!

7. I miss DVR..although I can download anything I want, whenever I want I have to wait until midnight so it is free and sometimes I don't want to wait. So pppffff.

8. This one might sound mean and out of place but I miss my independence, especially from Michael. I love him so much but here he has become my whole world. A few times a month or so I will go out with just the girls and do something but it is rare and not very often. When I have  hard time here or a bad day at work, I come to him and he is amazing, but at home with a phone at the ready, I had other outlets for support. Of course, everyone is still supportive and amazing but timing is a real challenge and I get to talk to everyone so rarely, that I don't like to weigh down the time with grievances.  So, Michael bares the brunt of it.  I look forward to us being able to do things separately without concern and conveniently. There isn't much I will do where I can't walk by myself. I am not in danger by any means, but it is just a hassle. I am intimidated to bargain with the taxis and I am unsure of where to go and what I would do when I get there.  We both have very little me time that isn't forced because of Michael's school work and I miss that. I can't wait to go somewhere with someone other than Michael or by myself that is more than half an hour away from my house!   Please don't take this as any indication that we are not happy, we are doing wonderfully together and I think this move has only strengthened our relationship but such a heavy reliance on each other can be overwhelming.

9. All in All I just miss America!

10. I am sure this list will continue to grow but for now its my main misses!!!!

To encourage you all to visit and all and all miss Beirut, here are some photos!

2 months to go and oh yeah another year!

I can't believe i have not written in my blog for so long and I can't figure out where April went. =)  We only have 2 months left of our first year in Beirut and what an amazing year it is has been. There have definitely been downs these last few months but more than enough ups.  I got really homesick in March and April and really wanted to go home.  I missed my family and friends more than I could imagine and I missed everyday conveniences. I wanted to get in my car and drive some where but couldn't. I wanted to walk or play in a park but couldn't. I wanted to see my family and friends but couldn't.  Thankfully, I had Michael here with me and friends to show me the way back.  Living here definitely allows you to go on downward spirals if you let it.  You can easily become lazy and unmotivated since little things here can be a pain in the ass. But, then you remember its sunny, 70 degrees and you are only a 10 minute walk from the water.  Things could definitely be worse. 

In April we had a bunch of firsts. We had a friend from Portland visit and saw a bunch of new things. The pictures are included. We had our first Mexican meal and it was disgusting.  I went to my first beach/pool resort. That is the thing to do on the weekends here.  I am sure there are more. I will keep thinking. 

So much as changed since we first got here, we are no longer intimidated to take taxis in and out of the city. Sometimes we even forget we live in a foreign city because we know our way around and we have developed quite a routine. But, then everyone starts speaking in Arabic around me and I remember! =)  My Arabic has not improved much since the beginning, I am definitely not being modest on that point. I seem to be lacking the phonemic awareness for Arabic. I often say something and the person listening will not understand me and I don't know why. Then after several more attempts, I get a "oh...and then the item I was trying to say." I have no idea how there version of the word sounded any different than mine, so at times I hate to say it but I give up..=)

I have also decided I am the creepy lurker of the Preschool. Everyone is very nice to me and individually we have great meaningful conversations but in a small group, I am the creepy lurker. I am embarrassed to remind to them to speak in English, and even when they are reminded they don't. So, I have just stopped reminding anyone. Since, I have no idea what anyone is saying, I just sit and watch. Hey creepball..=)  I often will contribute what I consider to be a funny comment about a student we have in common and often it is met with a blank face or minimal feedback, so I just stand there, unsure of whether I should just walk away or continue to wait for the conversation to continue.  I often find that I stand there probably just a little too long. I am that waiter at a restaurant who hovers and talks at your table for one minute too long. I am the last one at a party when everyone else has left and the hosts are falling asleep on their feet. =)  This might be an extreme but social awkwardness leads to that..=) I need to learn the Arabic word for creepball so I can know when it is used with my name in tow. Maybe by the end of next year I will learn appropriate conversation timing in Lebanon.

I am really proud of all Michael and I have seen and done this year. We have done especially recently of a lot of traveling within Beirut. Of course, there is a lot more to do and see but in the last few months we have made a lot of progress. We will continue to keep exploring and we are excited to see what else Lebanon has to offer!

The Cedar Reserve! A man in the tree!

Cedar Reserve. It was not warm!

Jbeil

Beiteddine Palace

 It is where the Prime Minister lives in the summer and it has the largest set of Mosaics in Lebanon.

During our 2nd Spring Break we went on a Byblos and Beyond tour. We went to 3 different cities. I can only remember the name of one but we really enjoyed it. We went to about 5 churches, so I think Michael was trying to drop a hint and take me on a conversion tour.  The pictures are all from Batroun a very cute coastal town with churches and the sea.

Beaufort Castle and Wadi Jezzine

This is our rooftop at sunset. 

The weather here right now is amazing. Mid 70s and mostly sunny! We are taking full advantage before the extreme heat moves in.

On Sunday we got the opportunity to travel for the day with our friends Andree and Eddie. We went to Southern Lebanon and had a great day. The weather was perfect and we saw some really, really beautiful things.  We drove through Saida which is known to have escalations in violence but we just drove right through and didn't stop so we had no problems. Most of the time though Saida can is safe, it just is not a very vibrant or intriguing city. Whenever I ask cab drivers or locals about Saida I get a very mixed review, some people say it is a most see and others say there is no reason to go. I have to say just seeing it from the car, I agree with the latter but that might not be fair.

 On the way through Saida a man had these pelicans out. Andree and I said they were real but Eddie and Michael didn't believe us because they are not found here, so we turned around and went back for a second look. Our assumption is that the man is selling them. They seemed to be friends and were very affectionate!

Andree, Eddie, and Me next to the Beaufort Castle

The Israelis' lived in this castle because it is on a high bluff and they can see anyone coming. They built look out rooms out front of the castle. The castle is mostly in ruins now but you can still see a few rooms and hallways.  It is very close to the Israeli border so we went through many check points and were turned around once because they do not let Americans too close to the border encase they are spies for Israel. I will have to remember on the next trip to bring my work permit and maybe a copy of my passport because I had no real ID to show the military and when they come to your car with their automatic weapons and long knives, I would like to be prepared. Nevertheless, the military and the locals we met on this road trip could not have been nicer and more helpful.

I believe this is a crusader castle.

 At one point during our visit we saw a animal that we did not recognize and then a few minutes later we heard a loud gun shot ring out. I think a local man took out our mystery animal..haha.  I don't think I have ever been so close to a real rifle being shot.  It other places it would be illegal to randomly fire your gun next to a public tourist spot, but ahh This is Lebanon and he had no bad intentions.

 This is a cathedral in Jezzine. It is a small town in Lebanon and it is beautiful. This is where Michael and I found our first Lebanese waterfall. All of the next few pictures are Jezzine!

We had such a great day and it was so nice to see a new side of Lebanon. Beirut is the opposite of green and open. The road signs are terrible and mostly in Arabic so we got really lucky that Eddie drove us around and handled all the directions for us, this would have been a very expensive trip with a taxi or an impossible trip alone.  We ate lunch at a restaurant over looking the waterfall. One wish I have  for Lebanon is that it would start a clean-up/environment campaign because all the beauty was slightly distorted with trash. There was a huge pile of garbage under the waterfall and leading up to it. I am not sure what can be done about it, but it definitely makes me think twice about my own affects on the environment. I am not sure when Lebanon got this attitude of just drop it on the ground but if something isn't done about it soon, Lebanon will lose even more of its natural beauty.  Overall, though it was one of the prettiest places I have seen and getting out of the city is always a special treat. It helps remind me when I am homesick or lonely, I am one lucky girl.

Birthday Week

Even though we were back to school after Spring Break for my birthday, I had a really fantastic week! It ended up being much more exciting than anticipated, mostly thanks to Michael and my friend Andree. Of course, everyone I know here and back home made it special but Andree ended up having a friend in town and I tagged along on their adventures.

On the Wednesday before my birthday. I went with Andree on a Rocche Rock boat trip. There are two giant rocks off the coast near our house and you can take a very small boat and drive through them. The whole thing lasted about 5 minutes, I think we got the American trip instead of the local trip.  I was unsure if the boat would stay afloat and the man kept encouraging us to move around our body weight, I ended up the only one on one side of the boat between the 4 of us and I tried not to take it personally..=) I am sure he just felt that I was more stable than the other girls..

Here is a picture of our boat that a 13 year old walked us to.  As we walked down to the boat, several locals hanging out on the Corniche were quite proud of the 13 year old for wrangling up a couple of American women. One man was kind enough to tell me he loved me! We walked down a "cliff" that is a bit of an extreme word but I don't know a better one right now, I guess a hill but that doesn't really do it justice either, that had no steps just a slight trail to find our boat. It was an adventure all by itself.

The water felt warm and was so blue, we went inside one small tunnel/cave and then through the rocks. Here is a view from the boat.

After the boat trip we went to Zeituny Bay, I think I misspelled it but it means olive in Arabic for a drink. It was beautiful there and I am going to push Michael to spend more time there. It is a boat dock for really expensive boats, as well as a strip of fancy restaurants and shops. It also has a pool in the summer. A few of the restaurants are affordable enough for us and we can just go for drinks and to be in a quieter spot.

Then we were off to our Lebanese 101 cooking class. We went to a place called Tawla (again I think) It was featured on Anthony Bourdains visit to Beirut. Everyday they have a different woman come and she creates a buffet for lunch. It is only open for about 4 hours everyday. They have 26 women chefs in all that take turns. So, you eat that day whatever she has prepared. It is pricey but a very nice space. So, we took a cooking class from one of the rotating chefs. We made Tabbouleh (which is a type of salad) everything has to be chopped very finely and it takes a lot of time. It is not my favorite dish here in Lebanon but was quite good this time.  Then we made hummus and kebbe in laban.  Kebbe is something I think Michael has blogged about and finally found the answer to but this Kebbe is a football shaped meat-filled treat. The outside (the football) is meat and some other ingredients and then you sautee meat and onions and spices and stuff it inside then bake them and then put in Laban. (Laban is a yogurt based food).
Everything was so delicious and the class was really fun. How much of it I re-create at home will be a different question.

On my actual birthday, I had to go to a guest speaker allllll day! But then I got to go to a delicious Armenian dinner with Michael at a new place we had not tried yet. Armenian food is a lot like Lebanese but spicier. We ate Chee Kufta/Kibbeh Nayyeh-which is  a raw meat dish, a lot like steak tartar. Then we had spicy fried potatoes, and quail eggs with meat on toast. We had a couple other dishes but those didn't make the picture. Everything was amazing!! Mom, I can see you scrunching up your face as you read this.

Then the Friday after my birthday again with Andree, I went on my first mini-bus experience.  Which ended up much better than expected. There is no public transportation in Beirut, so there are vans you can read in for about a dollar that stop and pick up and drop off people along the way. I think they go anywhere. So, we got on one and rode to Jabiel/Byblos which is an amazing coastal town. As we rode along, we picked up 4 guys from the military and 2 other random men. The bus had seats for 8 or 9 but I think would have taken more if there were people waiting.  Andree can speak really good Arabic and French, so she had a good time talking and translating for all of us.  It was quite an experience.  I am always very aware of how little I know in Arabic when I am in a situation with fluent, non-english speakers of Arabic. I get very few words. Thankfully, Arabic classes started up again this week.

 These pictures are all Byblos with our new camera!!

Finally, on Saturday we had a building and friends BBQ on our rooftop and it was perfect. The weather was a little cool but it is going to be so hot soon we are enjoying it while we can. So, it was a great simple evening with good people. I really appreciate everyone being so sweet to me in a new place on the big 30.  I am totally fine with turning 30, I actually feel like I have a lot to be proud of and have accomplished quite a bit and probably more than some people thought I would in my 30 years. I was just having a hard time reaching a milestone with the people I know best and longest. But, my friends here really rallied around me and made my 30th birthday perfect. I am so grateful for my Fadllalah second family! Here are some pictures from the BBQ..

The rooftop

Jen, Muay, and I

Tyson and the man that lives in our lobby Kamal

Carla my one Lebanese friend fromt Preschool

My building friends

Weird Sky